I don’t know what appeals about getting out into the great outdoors as we get older. There seems to be a desire to reconnect with nature, fill our lungs with fresh air, or is it just we have more time? Multi-day hiking away from civilisation is the ultimate, and near the top of that list is the Routeburn Track. While many people have this hike on their bucket list, I had more reason than most to complete this track.
About the Routeburn Track
The Routeburn Track is one of the 9 Great Walks in New Zealand. It runs 32kms (20.1 miles) through Fiordland and Mt Aspiring National Parks from The Divide on the Milford Road to the Routeburn Shelter near Glenorchy. You can complete it in either direction, and it usually takes 2 nights and 3 days. You can free-walk staying in DOC (Department of Conservation) huts or camping, or take the guided option.
We chose to do a guided walk of the track in March last year, which meant that we went with a group and three guides, as well as being treated to luxury accommodation and 3-course meals. Nevertheless, we still needed to carry our own clothing and personal items. The company lent us backpacks and raincoats, but my advice would be to take your own if you have suitable gear and are able to, as I found the disinfectant they used between trips a bit overpowering.
A guided walk is also a great way to do the track if you are on your own. We had a lady in her 70s in our group doing just that, and the Routeburn Track wasn’t the only walk she had done that way. As you walk and over dinner, there is the chance to meet new people, and you have the safety of the guides keeping an eye on the group.
Since we were walking from the southern end we went early morning by bus to Te Anau and then on to the Milford Road and the start of the track. The infamous Milford Sound sand flies were on hand to greet us so we hurriedly picked up our packed lunch, adjusted our packs for comfort, took the mandatory photo with the track sign, and were on our way.
On the Track – Day 1
The first day of the Routeburn Track is a 12km (7.5mi) steady climb up to Lake Mackenzie. An hour into the track there is an optional, but highly recommended, 30 minute-return trip up to Key Summit. So close to the beginning of our 3-day walk I wasn’t expecting to see evidence of what made this trip so special for me, but at the summit on a silver plaque showing a map of the surrounding peaks, there I found the name – G Moir, member of the first ascent party of Mt Christina. The same George Moir was the author of Moir’s Guide Book, the trampers’ bible to the region. George Moir, my grandfather.
Mt Christina sits to the right of the road leading to the Homer Tunnel, the only road access to Milford Sound. It is the highest of the Upper Hollyford peaks and was first climbed in 1925. On that day there was a grand view of the Darren Range with little cloud other than some swirling periodically around the summit of Christina. Other peaks Moir had climbed were also visible. I was looking out at my grandfather’s playground.
From Key Summit if you cast your eye to the right (and if you know where to look) you can see the valley that shelters the Lake Mackenzie Hut and ridgeline of the Hollyford Face that you traverse on Day 2 of the hike.
Rejoining the main track we tramped through silver beech forest to Lake Howden Hut, where we ate lunch, then on to Earland Falls. The falls and rock pools were bathed in afternoon sun inviting us to have a dip in the clear mountain water, so we did. I wouldn’t term it swimming, more like ducking under for 5 seconds then out! The rocks were warm and radiating heat so it was easy to dry out.
Onwards and the track took us into The Orchard with its open grassland, but now some mist enclosed us, so it felt a bit eerie. By this stage the group had spaced out, so there were just the 4 of us walking together.
A final surprise awaited us, a meadow strewn with rocks, as we entered the valley where our lodge was located. As the light faded we sat in the lodge gazing out the picture window at this unexpected vista.
On the Track – Day 2
Just as we were gathering to depart the next morning a group of cheeky keas (native alpine parrots) decided to come and investigate the lodge. Attracted by shiny objects they danced around the supply cage that is dropped into the lodge by helicopter, pecking at the iron railings, and putting on quite a show.
Before getting stuck into the 11km (6.9 mi) hike we gathered at the edge of Lake Mackenzie for a group photo. We had been unable to see the lake from our lodge, but the DOC hut is much closer to the shoreline.
Then started the serious climb, at first through damp forest dripping with emerald green moss and featuring miniature ferns, then out onto the mountainside as we zig-zagged up the hill. The lake got smaller below us as the views became more panoramic.
If you are thinking this is a nice wide level track with a safety railing, think again. It’s more of a goat track. You are regularly stepping over stones, and rarely place your foot flat, and although I had worn my boots in well, by the end of the day I had blisters on the side of my toes. Glance over to the left of the track and the mountain falls steeply away. It’s not hard to imagine a missed step sending you over the edge, and talking to our guide this does occasionally happen. She has hauled someone back onto the track from over the edge!
Arriving at Ocean Peak Corner, with the toughest part of the climb behind us, we stopped for a breather. On a clear day you can see the Tasman Sea from here. We couldn’t see that far ourselves but instead saw spectacular tentacles of cloud climbing the mountain faces.
The Routeburn Track from this point traverses the mountain range awaiting a gap, in the form of the Harris Saddle, to shortcut to the other side. Nestled in a field of golden mountain tussock is the Harris Shelter, our lunch stop on this day. At 1pm we joined the nation in a minute’s silence for the victims of the Christchurch Mosque Attacks, exactly one week prior. We stood in the complete silence in awe-inspiring surroundings, gazing at this alpine meadow and surrounding mountains.
In the next hour following lunch the majority of the climbing was done and we began to descend through the northern reaches of the Harris Saddle, past Lake Harris, a deep blue contrast to the golden surroundings and wound our way down to the Routeburn Falls Hut, arriving just above the hut in time to catch the spectacular Routeburn Valley bathed in the soft glow of sunset.
On the Track – Day 3
On the final day the 9km (5.7 mi) track follows the path of the Route Burn (from which the track gets its name) as it descends from the Falls, crisscrossing the river several times. To start with we were well above it, sometimes beside it, then it would plunge down and we would be looking down on it again.
The Routeburn Track entered bush almost immediately and this was the scenery for much of the day. In the beginning there was no sign of the river then suddenly we hit a clearing, thanks to the 1994 avalanche that wiped out the side of the mountain taking most of the trees with in. From this point you get the postcard-perfect view of the where the Route Burn splits into the North Branch and Left Branch.
You get the chance to walk in this landscape at Routeburn Flats Hut in a clearing at river level and gaze up into the mountains to see how far you have descended. While we were there we saw a helicopter heading up the valley and when it dropped its load it told us exactly where we had stayed the previous night.
At the end of the Routeburn Track is a final swing bridge leading to the shelter and car park. In our last group huddle the guides asked who had organised the stunning weather and I said that I had asked my grandfather to. Little did we know then how lucky we had been as two days later a storm rolled through the area, so severe it washed out the Waiho Bridge south of Franz Josef Glacier isolating the area…. and two of our guides were back on the track wishing George Moir was still in charge of the weather.
Heather Ogden-Handa
Good to meet you! I’m a marketer and writer interested in aging and longevity. I see lots of great information out there, so I’m keen to share topics that take my interest. Over time I hope the knowledge and community around this blog will have a positive impact on the healthy lifestyles of many individuals.